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21
Tutorials / Re: Typesetter Tutorial - Work in Progress
« Last post by adytu99 on July 08, 2010, 06:01:33 pm »
You should have made a new topic. This was a tutorial :D. Look at the other aplications for examples
The test content has included in it the fonts, the information on what fonts to use and the images have already been resized to the correct release size. all you have to do is use the correct fonts and sizes. Try your best and we'll tell you what needs ro be fixed.
Good luck!!!
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Tutorials / Re: Typesetter Tutorial - Work in Progress
« Last post by indhie07 on July 08, 2010, 12:39:38 pm »
-- i want to apply to be ur typesetter and im doin my test now but ive got a prob??
.. coz some group requires resizing ??? do i need to resize it??? something like 1200 pixels?  ??? ???

.. well then..... lastly well i do hope that you included those fonts that you're recommending in the pack.....  :) 
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Tutorials / Cleaner Tutorial - PS beginers
« Last post by linuxnofear on May 07, 2010, 12:17:10 am »
Here is a little tutorial for you who never used Photoshop!

-If you never used the program. Then you either give this up or you start the program and look around a bit.

-I suggest you do these things: Make a "New" workspace, try out the basic tools as Brush Tool, Zoom Tool (it is suggested to go to "Edit->Preferences->General" and check the "Zoom with Scroll Wheel", you can zoom with set intervals by holding Shift while scrolling), Marquee and Lasso Tool and Eraser Tool. Go ahead and try others to.

-Now you should set up your workspace. The windows you might need in PS is History, Layers, Actions and Tool Presets (if you are going to Typeset to then you will need Character too) and of course it is good to have the Tool window too, but not necessary, all tools have their short key. Brush Tool is "B", Marquee is "M" etc. Hold over the tools button in Tool window to see its short key.  The basic ones is good to learn for faster working.

-Okay, lets look at the History window. This is basically just whatever you have done on the space/project you are working on. If you undo, ctrl+Z, you will go back in the history. But only one step next time you press the you will go forward in the history and then back. If you want to go more steps backward, then press ctrl+alt+Z, and if you press ctrl+shit+Z you will go forward only. You can of course just press anywhere in the History list to go to that state. Every action made is named after what you did.

-Lets go over to Layers window. If you have a new empty space there should only be one object in the Layer window, Background or whatever translation you use. 
Now, sometime when you makes objects, like with Rectangle Tool, adds a Text or copy in a new object, that new object will be in a new layer. You can also add a new layer by pressing the New Layer button down in the Layer window or press the short key ctrl+shit+N.

-Then we have the Action window. This is for the more experienced users. But it won't hurt to learn it now. This is one of the best way to make cleaning/monotone work fast and easy. What you do is to make a new action Set. Maybe one per project. Then you make a new Action. Now you will see that there is a little red ball down in the Action window, this means that now is PS recording whatever action you do. So if you would use Brush Tool somewhere it will record exactly what and where you did it and add it to your action. If you are not ready to add actions to the list, just press the stop button next to the red record button. If you mark one action you can always add and remove new stuff to it. You will find this very useful later on. Just don't forget to turn off recording when you have added your desired actions.

-Tool Presets window is what it is named. You just save Tools settings and is able to recall them later, this is especially good for Text fonts.
-Character window is only the settings for the Text Tool.

-Now there is some other stuff that is good to know. Many of the lays in the Image  menu. First with have Mode where you set what color to use. Most used is RGB for color picture and Grayscale for black, gray and white pictures. The later one is mostly used in Scanlation.

-Then we have Adjustments with the most used options is Level (ctrl+L) and Curves (ctrl+M).  Level will give you a slider with three pointers to change, black, midtone/gamma and white. Sliding black toward white will make gray colors darker/black and white toward black will do the other way around. Moving gamma will change the colors from within. A good way to see how it works is to use Gradient Tool and make a black to white scale and the use Level and test. Curves does this to but it is more complicated and of course more options, and it can also adjust colors. I don't use it so I can't say so much about it, but some editors do it often.

-Then we have Image Size which is often used to. This will scale the whole picture. If you want to add more space to work on but not scale what you already have you can either make a new space with the size you need and copy over everything. Or you can use Canvas size that adds to the boarders.

-Then we have the Filters menu. At the bottom you will find extra programs that you might add to your PS later for special use. In here we also have some useful filters that you can add. Most of these is not useful for Cleaning but for other things you might do in PS. But useful is Surface Blur in Blur tab and Reduce Noise in Noise tab. Try these out and see how they work.

-And finally there is saving. If you want to be able to continue working on a project and not lose layers you must save the project/picture as a PSD. If you are done with it you should save color pictures in JPEG and grayscale in PNG. Don't forget that it is good to save your work in PSD if you later see that you made a mistake.

-Okay, this was some basics. Now try these things out and learn.
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Tutorials / Cleaner Tutorial
« Last post by linuxnofear on May 07, 2010, 12:15:40 am »
Here is a Cleaning tutorial.
This tutorial is made for Photoshop which is the picture editor we want our Editors to use. It is for the moment made for CS3 as it is the one I use for the moment. But the basics is mostly the same so there shouldn't be any problems. And I also suggest that you use a English copy to, makes it easier for others to help you, finding tools, menus etc, as we might not have ,a clue what "Noise"."Blur" or "Clone Stamp Tool" is in German.

-First of all... Damn there is so much that should be "first of all". Lets start with this. One of the best ways to learn something new, if you don't goes a course in the subject, is to try it out and see for yourself what do what. Tutorials is good the put you in the right way and give tips.
I have learned both 3D Programs and Photoshop by just trying stuff out and maybe snatch some tips and tricks from tutorials.

So I'm going to add some good tips and tricks in here, and some stuff that is required or almost required when you work as Cleaner/Editor.

-Now, Second of all... Ok, I will wait with that till you know the very basics of Photoshop(PS), jump this section if you think you know PS enough, but I suggest that you read it through anyway.


Now I will go in on learning to Clean.

We start with all over basics.

-This is very important and I will nag about it very much. Do always have the original RAW picture as background and never change that one.  Never. Redo everything if you accidently do it, so you learn not to!

-Make a new layer where you place a copy of the background in, I suggest to be named Clean. In this layer you clean up the page and makes it as it should be on release, at best as it looks when it was printed and even better if it is a bad printing.
Next layer is for text removing, I suggest calling it Bubble. This is a empty layer In which you cover text that is on the page. You can also do redrawing in this layer or make a new layer for that.
If you are going to TS to I suggest that you make a layer Group to put the Text layers in, for faster hiding.
So basically, make layers! Do not forget. You will make TS and QC happy. This especially important in your Cleaning Test.

-The size of the page is mostly 1200p (1200 pixels high) or 1400p. Ask the project leader what size you should save in. The DPI (Dots per Inch) should be 72. It is best to change the DPI first thing when you start with a new page and change size at the end. Except if it is smaller than the release size. Then it might be better to resize first so you might be able to make it look better while cleaning it.

-When saving you should NOT save in Maximum Compatibility. You can disable that function in "Preferences->File Handling".
You should also save Gray scale pages in PNG via the "Save for Web & Device". Try some settings, but basically it should be PNG8, Adaptive, Diffusion, 100%Dither. Then you can try out some amounts of color. Use as few as possible without making the page look bad. I use 17. Color pages should be saved as JPEG in the same place with about Quality 60%.

-When you start with a new project it is good to test out on some different pages, a dark on, a bright one and a gray one. Especially if you are going to make a action for that project. This is important so you not find out that the action that made the first page look wonderful made all the other look horrible.


Now over to the cleaning.

-Level is one of the most used thing in cleaning, even if it is just a little. It is a good way to remove lesser amount of dust. And is critical for fixing Magazine RAWs as they mostly looks gray and horrible. Sometime just leveling might not fix it. Be very careful when using Level as you might "burn" the page (make gray areas black), so take it very easy with it. Mostly you won't get rid all dust in black areas. One way to make the leveling effective without burning the picture is to place a Reduce Noise filter on the page. Set the Strength to 1 and all other options to 0. You can also use Surface Blur, be very careful with the settings as it can make gray boarders very blurry and indistinct.

-Even after leveling it will many times be necessary to do some manual dust cleaning. Best here is to use Brush Tool for single colored areas and Burn Tool for black white areas. Burn Tool do as it is named. It will burn gray to darker gray to black. Even thou Burn Tool can be very effective you must be careful around gray areas as it will make them burned.

-Cleaning out the text is one part where you have to be care full not to miss anything. It is very easy to miss a corner of a word when you clean out bubbles. Many people won't see that but it is annoying for QC to redo it. So be very careful and cover every word plenty to be sure. And do not miss whole bubbles.

Not all projects Translates SFX so it might not be necessary to remove them. Ask you project leader or translator. If you are not sure if it is a SFX then it is better to cover it and then the TS can remove the cover if it was unnecessary.  Use common sense and ask if it is very unclear. You should not make a big redraw in vain.


-Okay, redrawing. In so many series the Author is determined to make it hell for the Scanlators by putting text over the most annoying kind of stuff as speed lines, hair etc…

As I said before, put redraws in another layers then the cleaning one, that way it is easier to go back if you made a mistake.
Don't try and make redraws by hand with Brush Tool, you can use that to make smaller changes.

For big area textures I suggest that you use Clone Stamp Tool or copy a similar area and paste and from it to cover whatever need to be covered. Be very sure that the edges is not visible, that it is same tone on both sides.

Speed lines is best to counter with Line Tool. It is better to make many thin lines then just one heavy one. But you see when you work on.

To make gray it is better to change the tools Opacity then choose a gray color. That way you can slowly increases  and decreases the gray amount till it match.

When you are working with Magazine RAW you might need some heavy noise reducing tools. You can try and do this with PS built in Filters, but that is not recommended. Instead I suggest that you use a extra program called Topaz Denoise and Topaz Clean.  There will be more info in settings for them later in the Tips section.


Okay, that was the basic cleaning stuff.

Best of luck
linuxnofear
25
Tutorials / Re: Typesetter Tutorial - Work in Progress
« Last post by Vaane on March 07, 2010, 04:07:14 pm »
Might wanna include "augie" for small text, "Anime Ace 2.0" as an alternative normal talking font, and "Zud Juice" as a title/announcement font, you know what I mean, in those boxes where a narrator is speaking or something is labelled :O Also "Blambot Lite" is a nice title font :S
26
Tutorials / Re: Typesetter Tutorial - Work in Progress
« Last post by Sheekthief on February 21, 2010, 10:57:44 am »
BAWWW its in here...
means i actually have to work on it x-x
27
Tutorials / Typesetter Tutorial - Work in Progress
« Last post by Sheekthief on February 10, 2010, 01:04:05 pm »
Since I'm at home today (what a shocker) I am going to go ahead and start this typesetting tutorial.  I was thinking of making it a mixture of text and video/pictures.  Not sure how its going to go because the only video recording I've done was corrupt so yeah.
This is going to be an on going work in progress so I wouldn't suggest reading/taking a look until I say/thread title changes.

Well to get started here are some good skills to know before you typeset (these are optional to know so don't worry):
Cleaning: You can fix pages the cleaner might have missed as your typesetting to improve the overall quality of the work.
Redrawing: You can get rid of text that the cleaner forgot/left there since he/she is not good at redrawing.
Grammar: The way I think about typesetters I think of people who read the chapter as they go and should check the proofreader's work for errors.  Try not to use slang when making changes but if something is completely out of whack and you have no idea what to change it too without slang mention it to the Quality checker.
georgi edit: please leave changes to the quality checker. If you notice any errors, you should definitely make them known to the QC, but please don't make any changes yourself.
Knowing all 3 of these can make the quality checker's life a lot easier so learn the basics at least.

Ok now to the actual typesetting.

There is no set rule to typesetting.  Just guidelines if you will. (Pictures of each coming later)
Some common guidelines EVERYBODY should follow are:

Don't click and put text make an actual box for it.  Not only is it easier to judge the size of the text, it is easier to edit it if something is wrong with it.

Make a diamond shape for the text not a hourglass(a lot of people are lazy when it comes to this and don't even attempt at all. But try your best) Avoid an hourglass shape at all times.

Use the same font size through out the chapter. Don't use a 14 for a bubble then a 16 for the next bubble because it is slightly larger.  If it goes from a small bubble to a very large bubble then yes changing the font size is fine to fill up more of the bubble.

Don't cut words in half unless you are at a syllable or where it has a double letter.
DO: hey hows it going, nice weather to-day
DON'T: hey hows it going, nice weather tod-ay
DO: Man my tum-my hurts
DON'T Man my tu-mmy hurts
I think you get the picture.

Use the same font through out the chapter for the same things. This rule can vary as different series print the font in a different way on purpose (IE: Mahou Sensei Negima they use a bubble letters font. Up to the typesetter if you want to continue that or not)  If you can keep it the same through out the chapter (IE: Wild Words for all the regular chat. Except when it is special like in Mahou Sensei Negima) then do it.  If you are working on a project that has multiple chapters try to keep the same fonts through out the whole thing.  So for people who are reading it from start to finish later on will have it easy on their eyes.

Use fonts that are easy to read.  Don't use a font that makes the words hard to read.  It could actually cause confusion and other bad things to happen (IE: DEATH).  If its like a note then yeah a more "handwritten" font would be suitable.  But don't use a cursive font that is really "elegant" or "flamboyant" since these can be annoying and hard to read.  I've actually skipped notes because they were hard to read.  Then later on I didn't get half the story.

Try to position the text in the middle of the bubble as best as possible. 

Make sure to have the Anti-aliasing set to smooth as sharp can be blurry at times (ironic right?), Strong can make the text too thick and hard to read, Crisp can be annoying (never actually used it...) remember use SMOOTH.

Also Do not be too scared to rotate text when necessary to make things fit better/look better in general. 
All that I can think of for now.  So MOVING ON!
___________________________________________

Fonts
Fonts are the most important thing when comes to typesetting.  It can make or break a chapter.  It could be the best chapter ever but using a hard to read font would make the experience HORRIBLE.
Commonly used general talking fonts:
CC Astro City
Wild Words
Anime Ace 2.0

Commonly used general yelling fonts:
A.C.M.E. Secret Agent
CC Zoinks
Yikes
Yellowjacket

Commonly used general thought fonts:
CC Jim Lee

Commonly used general SFX fonts:
Inkpen Script 2
Felt

Small/Nervous Fonts:
Augie

Narration fonts:
Zud Juice
Komika Axis

Title Fonts:
Komika Axis
Blambot Lite
Yeah thats enough for now.

Well other than that there really isn't much to typesetting... I guess I could go into more detail but thats after I finish this with pictures and stuff.
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